close

當豐富濃烈的岩蘭草揉捏在一起,再加入一點讓人有點驚訝的廣藿香,這樣的表現,是不是調香師Oliver他大膽嘗試,想呈現一種全然濃烈,但卻又不會讓人覺得難以駕馭的感覺?如果是的話,我個人覺得他真的超級完美,而且成功到讓人無法抗拒這股魔力,而且從2017年下半年到現在,不到兩年的時間,已經讓太多人折服於他的天才了。

When abundant vetiver is malaxated together with some strong patchuli into a perfume, I am curious about if it is a kind of trick played by the perfumer Oliver. Did he want to have a spectacular try in his creation? If yes, I am personally allegiant to his talent. From 2017 Fall, this perfume has already astonished lots of people around the world.

  

或許很多人第一時間聽到岩蘭草就反應是很刺鼻的味道了,更何況維堤里歐還多加了海地岩蘭草進去之外,還有很多人評價像是中藥的廣藿香,這是要多濃烈?只是,他是溫柔的,像是那種不用語言表達自己的溫度,但卻常常在背後支持你的那種柔情漢子!當我聞到維堤里歐的前幾分鐘,岩蘭草的確已經是主調了,不過還多了一點讓人想去多吸兩口的柑橘,那種柑橘香不是讓人哇!好清新的感受,而是像朱自清筆下的父親,是那背影和掉落的橘子一般,讓人看了會有種感動,父親的慈愛總是不用動人的文字去表達,如同維堤里歐的柑橘,並不是我一聞就可以感覺到,但那柑橘的存在,又無法視而不見!那像是父親總是在孩子最需要自己的時候,一語不發、默默在背後幫孩子準備一切的那種溫柔,偉大卻不表明。

Probably, many people will reject the strong scent if the main element of perfume is vetiver. Not to mention the herbal alike patchuli in Diptyque Vetyverio, can you imagine how strong the perfume is? However, it is contrarily in soft and light. Although it is not really fresh and green, it is still warm and nice just like the gentleness from a musculine fellow. In the first few minutes of scent from Diptyque Vetyverio, the vetiver has used its utmost attraction to stimulate olfaction but one element would not be ignored. That is the mandarin orange which makes me have more deep breath to find out the beauty. The mandarin orange is not like other citrus scent you will scream out but to hide in the thick vetiver. The Chinese essayist Zhu Ziqing's writing, the sight of father's back and the falling orange in train station deliver the images to me when I am finding the mandarin in Diptyque Vetyverio. It is our fathers, they always provide the warmest help and care to us without words. The mandarin orange in this perfume has the same way to deliver the beauty to me.

  

我還記得,鄉下長大的那段童年,傍晚時分下課後,坐上父親騎來載我回家的摩托車,行經稻米田埂旁,風中吹來一種有乾草和生米的香氣,還有爸爸身上那件衣服的布料香,我在維堤里歐的味道表現上,彷彿瞬間把我帶回了那段回憶,尤其是車子停下來,在鄉間路旁的小攤販坐下來吃著小吃,用有點台灣國語的調調問著學校考試如何?似乎沒有一次是直接被父親稱讚自己的,但卻往往可以看到他得意洋洋地咧著嘴,跟朋友們說自己的孩子有多出色,那反差極大,可卻是讓人會心一笑。維堤里歐就是這樣,它不是讓那種一見鍾情的帥哥美女,甚至香調可能不是被討論的熱門香,偏偏當它那岩蘭草輕盈地炸開來,海地岩蘭草的深邃把味道帶上一種深層魅力時,那讓人讚嘆卻無法精準用文字描述的驚喜,就是它最大的魅力,就是父親在我們背後欣喜地讚賞我們的那種反差,好有趣!

I still remember my interesting childhood. When I was off from school and rode on my dad's scooter back home, in the breeze I could smell the scents of haystacks and green rices on the small road next to the farms. The fabric of father's clothes also delivered some light fragrance to me on the road. The scent of Diptyque Vetyverio has the same magic to me which immediately sent me back to the memories. In those days, we always sat in the small vender and my dad liked to ask me if I got a good results in exams. What impressed me was that he never gave me any positive comment, but he was happy to show up the proud appreciation of his son to others. It was very interesting and attractive. In Diptyque Vetyverio, I can say it is not the most beauty or hunk in perufmes even it could not be the popular scents to be discussed. Surprisingly, while the vetiver scent including the strong Haitian vetiver blows up in the base note, the surprise could not be strictly described out in words.

  

有別於其他品牌的岩蘭草香氣表現,維堤里歐最後用最輕透的方式,親膚的態樣來做這香氣的轉折,我很驚喜發現這種改變,一改岩蘭草給人的那種濃烈意象,反而像是一朵雲那樣輕輕柔柔的,這就像是父親大人老了,那股霸氣也不再了,但是他那讓人溫熱的柔情,是無法被忽視的,而且不減那當初的關懷,每個父親心裡都有一些遺憾,不能給孩子世界上最好的,但卻也都很驕傲,孩子做到了當初他所無法達成的。因為父親,有了我們,因為愛我們,父親更溫柔了;這就像是維堤里歐一樣,因為它,那有層次的岩蘭草讓我們變得獨特,也因為我們,岩蘭草成功地有了不一樣的那一面,寫完故事,又不知不覺多按了幾下維堤里歐。

Different from vetiver scents in other perfumes, Diptyque Vetyverio goes to another way to perform its base note. It does not intend to keep the intensive scent all the time but change to soft and apt to our skins after the top and heart notes. I may describe it as clouds flowing around us when we wear Diptyque Vetyverio on. Like our fathers, they will get old but the warm hearts to us are still same as before although they are not aggressive at all.  In every father's mind, they do have some regrets of not providing enough supports to kids but meantime feel proud of them as the dreams were made by their kids with their expects. Because of fathers, we have our achievement today. At the same time, fathers are more gentle because of their loves to us. It is almost same as Diptyque Vetyverio, the multiple layers of vetiver scent dress us to be more unique. Since we know how to appreciate it, vetiver successfully shows up its beauty in market. After completion of this story, I cannot help but to spray more Diptyque Vetyverio on myself.

  

註: 維堤里歐也有淡香水版本,表現上更為輕柔,那或許是另一個故事了,但此刻,我很享受在淡香精版本的維堤里歐。

以上部分圖片來自於Fragrantica 官網,若有版權問題敬請告知,造成不便之處敬請見諒!

arrow
arrow

    cwt84622 發表在 痞客邦 留言(1) 人氣()