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和三位迥然不同的泰國品牌調香師對話,我看到了很多他們相同的部分,他們熱情、也熱愛他們自己所努力的事業;但我也看到了不同,不管是過往的故事,或是自己堅持的部分,總是有自己的見解與特色,這也是他們讓人覺得可愛又可敬佩的地方,威廉謝謝這麼多人幫忙下,可以認識到三個完全不一樣的品牌調香師,也學到了三種不一樣的生活價值,讓我來說說他們的特色。

Talking with three different perfumers in three Thai fragrance brands, I saw a couple of charateristics in common. They are very passionate to people and very enthusiastic to their careers. On the other hand, I also find they are different too. No matter what kinds of stories the have or what kinds of life phylosophy they believe, they mainly have thier owned core belief which why they are successful today. William thank for all people who help me in the trip over Bangkok this March so I could meet up these three perfumers to appreciate their living philosophy. Just let me to have an explicit talk about this aspect.

MITH

   

這是大家耳熟能詳的調香師,Por真的很幽默有趣,這次和他談自己與這品牌在三年時間的改變,著實讓我真的感動,而且心裡面也有著許多佩服。或許很多人會思考與害怕中年危機,但往往我們在思考這問題之後,都是選擇消極且無奈地留在原地,庸庸碌碌地繼續為著五斗米折腰,談興趣,似乎是小時候的專利;談理想,可能是年少輕狂的代表,但你有沒有思考過,如果沒有去做,就等於沒有機會,如果沒有去努力,就等於一切是空想?但Por做到了!他說其實室內設計師與調香師都一樣,但也不一樣,兩者都是在把不一樣的素材,用自己的創造力,把它們一一串起,變成一個屬於你自己創作的藝術品,可是也不同在,室內設計,你追求的是如何讓客戶利用他的眼睛去評定你的作品好與壞,而香水,卻是取決於如何讓對方透過看不到的香味,利用嗅覺直接打動對方內心。或許兩者都是利用創作在贏得他人主觀的價值認定,但你我可能沒有辦法跟Por一樣,他是在用心與別人的心互動著,而不是單純僅僅為了五斗米折腰,這讓威廉思考自己,我能有多少勇氣跟Por一樣?又有多少熱情跟他一般?深談後,再看看他的57支作品,我笑了!我想,即使今天不是每個味道都能夠打動所有人,但他用心的每個味道,都會有它的溫度,香氛作品很多,但有溫度的不多,而有讓人窩心的溫度更少,但我在MITH找到了。

  

I believe you have been familiar with him for a certain of period. He is Por, the unique perfumer of MITH Thailand nowaday. In this interview with Por, I found Por is very humorous and interesting. We know MITH was established three years ago, and some storms had been crossed over by Por before my visit to Bangkok. I focused on his career in this three years as well as his personal plans and changes which eventually touched me so much. It might a very serious and upset topic when we are talking about the mid age crisis because we would find ourselves getting older but less things we can handle and control. Under the circumstances, we would remain everything without change. You may protest that it was not a fault as people shall maturely think about the economic issue for surviving in life. Indeed, it seems to be a kind of previlege for kids to think about interests even it should be young generation's medal to consider the future ideals. However, have you ever questioned that how could we have such a chance if nothing had been taken aggressively? I can tell you that Por has made it. He told me that being an interior designer is same as a perfumer but also different. You have to take all independent materials to create your design no matter it is for building or for fragrance, but people could only use their eyes to judge your design when he was working as an interior designer. Now, he can use his designed fragrances to touch people's heart. When you find the creation may walk into others' heart, the happiness therefrom is never ended. The judgement is always subjective but Por believes that the moving got from an invisible fragrance via olfaction can much more touching than anything else. Therefore he decided to take actions to make differences. From this, I start to question myself that if I may have same brave to make such a big change, and how passionate I can be in my career. Reviewing the interview and his current 57 different perfumes, I finally have some smile and realize that Por's perfumes must have warmer care and love to his clients as he indeed used his true heart to create this brand. Who can decline the true warmness from the heart? Definitely not, and MITH comes to you here.

PAWIS

   

香水藝術有很多方式可以呈現,Pawis用了或許不起眼的花卉來代表泰國人的真誠,想傳達泰國人雖然很簡單卻只想準備最好的給所愛的人,在傳統的風格底下,要在競爭的泰國市場裡面走出一片天,其實並不是那麼容易,可是,創作有時候不需要邏輯,為什麼玫瑰只能是浪漫的代表?只能是女孩子喜歡的香氣?更有人直接定義玫瑰就是老態的一種表現,Pawis並不服氣,他眼神裡面那種不服輸的感覺,就這樣讓他拿了不一樣的元素疊在玫瑰這樣被人框住的香味上,他說:「我只是想要讓他變得比較好玩一點而已,就這樣!」我好奇並問著,難道在這些創作中,成本與評價都不重要嗎?而回覆我的答案也很簡單,也就是堅持的條件下,絕對不能有任何例外,這讓我覺得,就是那份堅持,所以只有最好的原料做的產品才能叫做PAWIS,只有勇於創新打破傳統思維的心才有PAWIS的精神,很耀眼!或許你會思考,這種方式有沒有與他們一開始的理念有所牴觸?事實上恰巧可以看到,一顆年輕的心,堅持傳統泰國人的精神,就順理成章地,走出了PAWIS的風格。訪談過程,真的不免感受到一種親切的實在感與真誠,無論今天靠近的客人懂香氛多少,他們都願意毫不思考,也不保留地一一分享,或許他們是在追求每一個對於他們創新的作品給予一個肯定與讚美,但在我眼裡,他們反而是在玩香的過程中,想辦法給予各種香味獨特的生命力,因為肯定與讚美,不需要多餘的刻意,就已經可以征服你我。

  

There are many ways to show up the fragrance art, but Pawis decided to take a simple way to be the representative of Thai people in this brand. A flower which is rarely found globally but quite common in Thailand. Pawis likes this small white flower because it is very simple but the attraction is never less than other beautiful flowers. Thai people are same as this small flower, simple but always with the best to treat the loved. Under the tranditions, it must be very difficult to compete with all other fragrance brands in Thailand even the world. However, creation is never built on any reason or logic frame. Why is rose only for romance? How could the rose can be for female only? Even lots of people directly believe rose is too mature and old school. Pawis does not agree to these stereotype. From the eye contact with him, I could clearly find Pawis would like to break the rules. He came to me with this, "I need to make this fragrance be more fun, and that's it". I was curious and asked if all costs and comments from others are nothing valued to be considered? The answer was also simple that the insistence can not tolerate any exception. Only the products made by the best qualified materials can be called PAWIS. The innovation is the core spirit of the brand. Based on this aspect, PAWIS is so shine as the logo. I like the performance of PAWIS and appreciate it not only preserves the tradition of Thai spirit but also contains the modern innovations. This specific charateristics of PAWIS will shine up the Thai market. During the interview, I could easily feel the sincerity of Pawis. It is not subject to how much I have understood but for all people who are interested in. To share and to impact, they may want to obtain all your praises as well. However, what I can feel more is they hope to give each fragrance a new vivid life instead of trapping them in its lines. Then the appraise is not so important while it will be much easier to win your heart. 

Butterfly

 

  

   

有一群人,是在我們汲汲營營地追求新潮與流行的腳步上,駐留在找尋那傳統老靈魂的魅力上,他們不是食古不化,而是發現了那些傳統,專屬他們的美,不是每天求變求快的流行可以同言而語的,和Butterfly的老闆Chin這樣談著,他不在乎他人如何看待他仍走在泰國傳統香氛而不改變的手法,用傳統的椰子油作為香水的介質,而不願低頭屈就於現在普遍使用的大量香精與酒精,這也就是這品牌的價值所在,或許Chin跟其他調香師一樣,都是有自己的獨特堅持,可認真了解後,不免看得出來,他除了珍惜泰國的老式香氛價值之外,更是不願意讓任何擬真的概念蒙塵在自己的核心價值上,無論是甚麼題材的香水,如果天然的食材可以幻化成香水的原料,他不會考慮其他的合成品,就如他自己簡單的說:「在那個古老的年代,那些老泰國人就這樣做著自己的香水,那為什麼我們還要拿其他的現代替代品,做了之後還標榜是傳統天然香氛?這邏輯我自己說不過去。」這樣的道理也讓我想知道,天然的香氛很吸引人,但保存方式與時效呢?Chin這樣解釋,每個作品所需要的天然食材不同,每種材料就如同我們的食物一般,不同原料有不同的特色與保鮮期間,他希望消費者和他們對話著,針對他們所欣賞個別作品,討論著那些老經驗的好,也共同欣賞著那些老靈魂的美。

  

 

There are always some people enjoying their insistence in old tranditions while others have tried all best to seek fashion and up to date trends. They are not really old school, instead, they just discover the unique beauty of traditional fragrance. Although most us like latest new products and skills, the tradition is totally different from modern. I talk with Chin, the owner of the brand Butterfly, and learnt that he does not care about others' comments on his traditional perfumes. He uses coconut oil as the medium instead of the cheap alchohol in his creation. This is simply the core principle of this brand. If you say Butterfly just has the old soul in this brand, I would say it's a but unfair to him. He just does what he wants to insist in as other perfumers. What I would like to say for Chin is that he is not only treasure the traditional Thai fragrance values but also keep his owned heart at the passion like the very beginning. While the perfume can be made by natural ingredient, he must use the most natural way to complete the work and never give in toward any obstacles. He explained to me that, "those ancients made perfumes by those natural ingredients and proved the method workable, I could not see any reason to take composite as the replacement". Such concept made me doubted that the perfume expiration date could be affected since all ingredients are so fresh. Chin said different perfume contains a couple of different natual ingredients. The preservations to different ingredients are varied. Therefore, Chin hopes his clients would like to have a short talk with them in order to help people to get closer to this brand. Are you ready for such a different beauty? Not yet tight?

下次當你再次靠櫃時,別忘了體驗一下調香師的用心唷

When you have another chance to get in touch with these brands, please do not forget to experience and taste their philosophy.

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    cwt84622

    北海小威就是愛旅遊,就想灑香香說故事

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